Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Well Armed with the Bounty of Spring

(Wrigley in the snow via jtwex's photostream)

It's strange to think Mother's Day is already upon us, isn't it? Despite the open patio umbrellas and grandstands now packed with blue at Wrigley, I somehow feel as though when I open the door in the morning, there should snow banked along the streets. Trust me, I don't wish that upon us one bit - but boy, is time flying by or what?

And so, here we are. Spring time. The great thing about Spring time for those in chef coats is the abundance of product from the farmers that is suddenly at our disposal. The great thing about Spring for you is that when we in the chef coats are armed with this produce, we have fun! And yeah, the team and I have been having quite a bit of fun...

So, starting tomorrow, bin wine cafe is gettin' spanked with a whole new menu littered with the gems of Spring. We're adding Orecchiette that we'll toss with Rapini Greens, Peas, Carrots, Garlic, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Herb Ricotta as well as one of the few sustainably recognized fish types available on the market, Alaskan Halibut - and I'm really excited about this dish. We'll be pan searing the Halibut, and highlighting the best of spring on the plate with Fava Beans, Olive Oil Poached Grape Tomatoes, a Pesto made with Basil and Mint, and a Spring Onion Potato Cake. And then there's the pizza element of Spring - with such a bounty, one never knows what we might throw at you for our daily pizzas...

(Rapini from the Farmer's Market via La Pomme de Portland's photostream)

But, for a restaurant, this time of year also marks what is often the busiest day of the year, hands down. Mother's Day. For those who follow the blog regularly, you should remember the pictures we shared when smoking our Easter Ham a few weeks back - the ham was a tremendous hit on Easter Sunday. Well guess what, moms. You're getting one, too! And this time we're pretty early in the process of getting the ham ready - yes, we really do work on it this far out - so I thought it'd be fun to keep a running picture report throughout the process.

To cut it short, the ham!

(Mother's Day may be in the distance, but we're already preparing)

At this point we've scored the exterior of the ham and are doing something I'd imagine not many of us have done before - how many of us have ever cooked a ham this big even - we're brining the ham, which is to say beginning a long process of love and care that will, when your piling Mom's plate from our craving station, smell, look, and taste like you wouldn't believe...

This should be a lot fun, chronicling the ham. It's not often we chefs have the chance to capture these day-to-day tasks and look back on them in retrospect. Hope you'll join me for the ride!

Monday, April 19, 2010

When the Internet is Like a Glass of Riesling




(Workers of a German vineyard in the Black Forest,
photo dated 1965 via mazdamiata's photostream)

With the surge in phone-based applications and tweets and status updates and so on and so forth, we all realize that a new generation of diners and wine drinkers are getting to know BIN for the first time. So, though for some of you learning about BIN School for the first time might seem like a head scratcher, for so many others it's sort of a revelation. Tonight we're hosting another session of BIN School's popular Wine 101, which got me thinking a bit more about how to continue wine education outside of a tasting or hands-on lesson like we offer with BIN School.

Isn't there one obvious tool that makes learning, no matter how much you already know about wine, so simple? So yeah, no duh, it's the Internet! But then, where do you begin?

For one, I say start with one source and follow that source for a short time. In doing so, you're more than likely to learn about more writers and more websites, which will obviously open more doors for exploring the world of wine through your computer. But then, where to start? Well, one popular source is wine writer Eric Asimov of the New York Times, formerly of the wine blog The Pour, which was recently combined with other Times blogs under the title Diner's Journal.

On the heels of the second video in our YouTube series about Alsatian wines, Eric recently wrote a great piece on neighboring Germany's hand in Riesling, or more specifically Kabinett Riesling. So here's how I'd imagine people stand: some might say yeah, I love Riesling, but have no idea who Kabinett means - to which I say, all the more reason to read the article. But then others might say, heck, I not only love Riesling, but I more specifically love Kabinetts - to which I say, again, all the more reason to read the article! Regardless of how much you know about wine, it's through writers like Eric that we're provided the opportunity to expand not only our knowledge about wine overall, but our involvement of current trends and stories in the wine world today.


(The smell via CoCo Fire's photostream)

And then there's the quirky side to something like a blog, especially a writer with the talent and wherewithal like Eric, who recently wrote a piece titled: "The Wine Critic’s Week Without Drinking Wine," which he wrote after breaking his nose - yeah, for a wine writer, the nose is kind of a crucial thing to have, huh?

And by singling out Eric I'm not suggesting there aren't other writers you should explore. Heck, in Chicago alone Bill Daley and Ari Bendersky and so many others do us proud! It's just that, as with so many things, if you think too big with wine you won't be able to fully enjoy what it is that's in your glass - or in this case, on your computer screen.

So whether you're new to BIN School and will be tasting with us tonight for the very first time or well beyond that first lesson of Wine 101, we're still all, in some ways, riding this journey in the same boat. Which is why I have to ask, who and what else do you turn to in the world of wine when you're hungry for more?

Cheers!




Friday, April 16, 2010

Kitchen Inspiration


(An enchanting smell, when peppers roast...)

While working in this business certainly has its pitfalls, wandering through the restaurant today I was reminded of those little things that make this industry so special - so obviously, I'm sharing!

Even the most composed and polished restaurants are machines that chug along at a rapid pace. What separates those restaurants from others is how those intermittent parts manage the rapid pace. Parts like the waitstaff, bus staff, and bar staff. The front desk that greets you and the garde manger who makes your salad. The sous chef who is filling in for the sick fry cook and the chef de cuisine who is expediting the tickets as they come in and the food as it leaves the dining room in the runner's hands. All of these parts combine to present you with an experience, and not only do few restaurants make it look easy, but how many types of businesses, of any kind, function under such pressure day in, and day out?

I have to say, I'm incredibly proud of the many intermittent parts that make up BIN 36. When I was walking through the kitchen and could smell peppers roasting on the grill, could hear the sound of a knife as it worked through a fish at the hands of our chef John Caputo, it just kind of hit me, you know? Sometimes, things like that just happen - because everyday I beam with pride for what we've accomplished and present to you, but there's just those moments when you really come to grips with what you've got going...

And so, brought on by inspiration, maybe you'll smell and hear and feel just a glimmer of what I feel right now:

(Super fresh and for our Lobster Shepherd's Pie)

(A beautiful fish... Sturgeon steaks!)

(Two words: Tuna. Nicoise.)

(And instant mouth-watering gratification...
Brown Sugar cured Pork Loin.)

And if you've read this far (and haven't heard yet), a result of such fortuitous events? We've dropped the price of all wine flights at BIN 36 to $10, but only for tonight... so I don't know about you, but it's time to get my wine on!

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

The Wines of Alsace


(Beautiful Alsatian vineyard via
Wolfgang Staudt's photostream)

Last week the video was of Méthode Champenoise, which is simply the French method of making Champagne. Did you see how, when listening to the winemaker himself, there's so much information to be had? Not just in what he has to say, but in how he says it? In that first video, and also in this second one, the passion these men have for their wines, the regions they're growing in, it's apparent in every movement they make! Be it a shrug of the shoulders or wiggle of the fingers, there's truly something special to take away from these videos.

So what about this video then? One word: Alsace. Aside from the French linguist or wine student, one might not know where Alsace is - or, a wine drinker who drinks Alsatian wines might easily confuse Alsace to be a pert of Germany - because no, Alsace is not in Germany. After all, the bottles are the same, aren't they? And Riesling and Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris, these are well known German wines, right? But Alsace is in France!

(Map of Alsace via plc9's photostream)

In fact, Alsace is on the very eastern border of France, which is why many of the grapes grown their are the same as grown in Germany (Alsace varietals: Riesling, Pinot gris, Gewurztraminer, Muscat d'Alsace, Sylvaner, Pinot blanc, Klevener). However, for those who've compared, the difference in style is just night and day.

My guest in the video, Etienne Hugel of Hugel and Fils (whose site is pretty cool - I'd check it out), has so much to say about Alsatian wines, despite the short two minutes the video lasts. You might learn more about the region than you have since you've been drinking wines from there!

And, one last thing before the video, because it's great to always think about pairing wine with food, Alsatian wines are marvelous food wines - but I bet you knew that. Enjoy the video!


Friday, April 9, 2010

Méthode Champenoise

(My favorite bivalve via Niamheen's photostream)

If you're reading this blog, I think it's safe to say you drink wine. If you drink wine, then I also think it's safe to say at one point or another, you haven't quite been too sure whether or not to trust the person who's pouring the wine for you. Be it a server at a restaurant, a merchant in a wine store, or even a friend. Unless you're truly versed, if the label is in Spanish, Italian, or French, most of us just have no clue what's in the bottle. Well, that's what's so special about BIN 36. I don't think I'm going out on any limb when I say that people not only trust our take on wine, but seek us out when they've come across someone they don't trust.

And, no doubt, credit for this goes to how we've been able to educate both new faces and friends alike over the past ten years. Whether you've sat with me in a BIN School wine class or you've chatted table-side with a server about which wine to pair with the fish John's prepared for the evening, it's difficult not to come to BIN 36 and not only learn something new, but in a way that's absent of any pretension and intimidation.

That's why I'm so excited to share with you a series of videos I shot for Wine Taste TV.

Granted, winemaker Laurent D'Hardcourt has a thick French dialect, which might be tough for us Mid-westerners to pick up on, but his short breakdown on how his winery makes Champagne is the kind of stuff you'd usually get from a trip to the winery itself - you're learning from the source! He's a brilliant winemaker, and his Pol Roger is some of the most celebrated Champagne in the world.

Champagne is a wine we often keep stashed away, something to be popped open for an anniversary or engagement or maybe that spontaneous, much needed night away from the city... I challenge you to think of it differently. At BIN, it's not a Sancerre we pair with our oysters, but a glass of bubbly. Think oysters are slimy and gross? Then that's the challenge.

How else might you step past the boundaries of indulgence and just simply sit back with friends and relax, all while those little pearls of effervessence rise to the top of your glass...?


And, of course, enjoy the video!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Anyone Yelp That Play by Buehrle?



(Putting together a 3-legged table)

I've been thinking a lot about what makes a great restaurant experience. At BIN 36, we've always rested our hat on three principals (the 3 legs of the table): food, service and ambiance. It sounds like a simple enough formula but getting all 3 correct on a regular basis is really tricky. We've all been to restaurants where the service was great but the music was too loud - or the room had a great vibe but the food was just average. And then there's the a place were we've had a great experience on one occasion, but then a lousy one the next time around. Great, consistent restaurants are few and far between.

And, now, in the age of Yelp, Metromix and every other free forum out there, feedback is immediate and uncensored from our guests - and not always flattering. That said, the feedback does help to reinforce the value of our 3 legged table model for an exceptional restaurant experience. Seriously. One of the reasons we revamped the menu was because feedback was coming in that the food had dipped below BIN 36 expectations - that even went for the restaurant's decor. So we listened. Finally, in conjunction with the surface changes, we redoubled our efforts to train and educate our staff about the new cheese list and menu as well as how to provide a great experience for our guests. So, in that spirit, I wanted to let you know that we'll be overhauling our wine by the glass program as well within the next two weeks. After about a year of consistent selections, Brian Duncan has tasted through a whole new batch of wonderful, surprising and very tasty wines. If there's ever a reason to get your taste buds working, how is it now for this?


Running a restaurant is an ongoing challenge - each day the product is fresh, the guests are hungry, and it is up to the staff to make the experience memorable. It was a long, cold winter. But yesterday was Opening Day, Spring is here, and, at BIN 36 we're excited to continue to listen to what's been said, and pour that next glass of wine.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Easter Hams, Easter Buffets

Call it a bias from too many years spent in the restaurant industry, but when Easter comes to mind two things follow closely behind: that Easter Ham, and those glorious, endless tables of all the food one could ever hope for. We spilled the beans on how bin wine cafe is bringing in the holiday two days ago, and now it's BIN's turn.

To be honest, it was something I saw just minutes ago when walking to the office that sparked that bit of writerly inspiration to sit down and attack this post. John, his knife at in hand, gettin' to work on what'll be Roast Beef, hand carved to order this Sunday for Easter.

Ten years ago, when we opened BIN, if you weren't friends with a chef or owner of a restaurant, there was really no way you'd ever have access to the behind-the-scenes stuff that something like a blog allows everyone access to today. Pretty darn cool, don't you think? Kinda makes the process of knowing your food, and truly appreciating where it comes from before eating it, a great thing for so many people to access.

So we'll have the Roast Beef, but there's loads more in the works. From Eggs Benedict to our signature Omelete Bar to tastes of the Spring like an Asparagus Salad John has planned to Blueberry and Ricotta Pancakes and Smoked Salmon, Prosciutto, and assorted Salumis, I challenge anyone to conquer this entire spread - seriously, if you do, you need to comment on the blog and let me know... maybe I'll have something for you!

The media has generated some great buzz about Sunday's upcoming brunch, and we truly believe it's the best in the city. And just for kicks, another shot of that Roast Beef...

But there's something I've neglected so far... that Easter Ham. This year, there's a bit more to the ham than it's storied tradition.

Lurking in that smoke are the hams, which before finding a brief home in BIN's smoker, were cured for ten days straight... TEN. But the truly special story to these hams is that they come from Michigan's own Swan Creek Farm. It was nearly a year ago that a fire swept through the farm's grounds, pushing the small operation to a near total loss. Can you imagine how devistating this would be to a family farm? But with their reputation, and invaluable friendships with chefs and restaurants all over the midwest, the restaurant community rallied together and held benefits and fundraisers to help give the farm its legs back.

And now, one year later, we're able to share pictures from our kitchen of the farm's pork that we'll be serving special for Easter Sunday.

A story that has truly traveled full circle, we're just thrilled to share with you and your family. And fitting, given the story of Easter, isn't it?


And, befitting of BIN's own tradition, expect the following libations:

Bloody Mary Flights
the BIN 36 Mary, the Italian Mary, the Asian Mary & the Consuela Mary

Mimosa Flights
classic orange, pineapple, pomegranate & peach

And for the kids!

Juice Flights
apple, orange, cranberry and pineapple juice

Milk Flights

strawberry, chocolate, vanilla and regular milk

That's it for now. We've got some busy days ahead of us as we prep for Sunday...